April 23, 2019 • 5-minute read • Author: Severine Clochet
The skin is the first barrier that separates us from our environment, and when the body becomes intolerant to a substance, it is at this level that it reacts.
An allergic reaction involves the immune system: Langerhans cells present in the epidermis are able to recognize molecules foreign to the body and to implement several actions in order to eliminate them.
But sometimes, these cells react to allergens that are initially harmless to the body and cause defense reactions that lead to allergic symptoms.
Some people may not suffer from any allergies for years and then suddenly become allergic to a very specific molecule.
There are two phases in the development of an allergy:
The sensitization phase: the first encounter with the allergen, recognized as dangerous for the body, and the creation of antibodies specific to the allergen. This first phase is called the silent phase, meaning that no symptoms are visible.
The allergic reaction phase: after several contacts with the allergen, the "killer" cells are activated, notably releasing histamine, which triggers an inflammatory reaction immediately after the application of, for example, a cosmetic product containing the allergen. This means that you can develop allergic symptoms to a molecule present in a cosmetic product that you have been using for a long time.
How to distinguish between allergic skin and sensitive skin?
Skin sensitivity, like allergy, is linked to different factors that make the skin more reactive and is often expressed by identical sensations, but the manifestations are much stronger when it is allergic skin rather than sensitive skin.
Allergic skin reacts every time it comes into contact with one or more allergens (substances that trigger an allergy), and the main symptoms are diffuse or localized redness, itching, swelling, and eczema. These symptoms can develop within minutes or gradually over several hours and take time to disappear because the allergy affects not only the epidermis but the entire immune system.
Sensitive skin is more vulnerable and reacts immediately to external elements. It's skin that doesn't tolerate much and suffers from discomfort, itching, with or without redness, and a burning, itchy, and tight feeling. These sensations can appear under the influence of various factors (pollution, weather changes, wind, stress, emotions, etc.) that generally don't cause any discomfort on so-called "normal" skin.
So, what should we do?
ALLERGIC SKIN
For allergic skin, the first step is to identify the allergenic molecule(s), pay attention to the signs and symptoms, isolate the product in question and stop using it immediately (see allergen guide below).
As a precaution, before using a new cosmetic, it is recommended to test your products on the inside of your elbow and not to choose products that are too harsh, which may weaken the skin barrier and promote the passage of allergenic molecules into the skin.
Restore the skin barrier, which is lacking lipids and water, by properly nourishing and hydrating it. By softening the stratum corneum, you will restore suppleness to your skin.
SENSITIVE SKIN
You can protect sensitive skin through your daily skincare routine. It's therefore important to be as gentle as possible and adopt certain habits that will help reduce the discomfort caused by skin hyper-reactivity.
It is crucial to follow a gentle cosmetic routine formulated without irritating substances and to protect your skin well from external factors, particularly by applying antioxidant treatments.
Avoid excessive "hygiene" at all costs, as it further irritates the skin. The more you cleanse it, the more you strip your skin and the more fragile it becomes.
Choose skincare products containing soothing active ingredients such as Calendula, a vaso-protective agent that will reduce redness.
Top allergens
An allergen is a substance foreign to the body, of natural or synthetic origin. Sometimes harmless, it nevertheless puts the human body on the defensive.
Upon contact, the latter activates its immune system which will release its antibodies (IgE) to neutralize the allergen suspected of being a disruptive agent.
There is a list of 26 molecules recognized as allergens in the cosmetics regulation, which must be included in the list of ingredients as soon as they are present at more than 0.01% in rinse-off products and more than 0.001% in leave-on products:
Some allergens are naturally present in essential oils.
It is not a question of eliminating all products containing this type of molecule, because even clean and natural products can contain them, unless, of course, you are allergic.
Découvrez la routine de soins pour prendre soin de la peau sujette à l’eczéma. Utilisez des produits doux et adaptés. Eczéma, caractéristiques d'une peau atopique.
Prendre soin de sa peau sensible avec la bonne routine. Rougeurs, échauffements, tiraillements. Adopter les bons réflexes et choisir les soins adaptés à la peau sensible.
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