Adult acne: how to get rid of it?

June 2, 2020 • 6-minute read • Author: Severine Clochet

Acne , often a source of insecurity, isn't limited to adolescence. It can persist in a chronic form into adulthood, primarily affecting women. In developed countries, nearly one in two women suffers from it, making hormonal acne the most common skin condition in France. Our experts detail the causes , treatments , and ways to reduce scarring, highlighting the effectiveness of combining several solutions.

THEMES
Concerns • Tips/Tips • Care
Sommaire
How does adult acne, also often called hormonal acne, manifest itself?
Why do we get acne?
What are the causes of acne in adults?
What treatment is available for hormonal acne in adults?
How to remove acne scars?
Dermatological and medical management of hormonal acne
Nutritional management of hormonal acne
Aesthetic treatment of hormonal acne

How does adult acne, also often called hormonal acne, manifest itself?

In women, adult acne is primarily located on the lower face, on the cheeks or chin, while in men it is more commonly found on the back. It takes the form of pimples, often inflamed. These are called papules. They can develop into pustules (commonly whiteheads) or nodules, which are more persistent and deeper, causing scarring.

Why do we get acne?

Whether it occurs in adolescence or adulthood, acne is primarily due to an excess of sebum.

Sebum is one of the main components of the skin's hydrolipidic film, ensuring its proper hydration.

However, seborrhea (the overproduction of sebum by our sebaceous glands) clogs the ducts of the hair follicles attached to them. This obstruction then promotes the development of Propionibacterium acnes, a bacterium responsible for inflammatory reactions such as acne.

What are the causes of acne in adults?

There are three main factors that trigger acne in adults:

HORMONAL IMBALANCE OR CHANGE

This is known as hormonal acne. How can hormonal acne be recognized in adults?
This type of acne primarily affects women, who are subject to various periods of hormonal fluctuations throughout their lives. Hormonal acne can, for example, occur when stopping (or starting) a birth control pill. But it can also appear before menstruation, during pregnancy, or during perimenopause. It can also be caused by an excess of androgen hormones in the body, abnormally stimulating the sebaceous glands.

Unlike teenage acne, hormonal acne in adult women is primarily inflammatory with few or no purulent comedones. It is mainly located under the chin.

DIET AND HORMONAL ACNE

Acne and diet are indeed linked, and dairy products are particularly singled out. German nutritionist and dermatologist Yael Adler confirms this. Studies she has examined demonstrate that after puberty, milk consumption causes sebaceous glands to enlarge in humans, even with just one glass a day. The consequence: excessive sebum production and inflammation (which is itself exacerbated by dairy consumption, which also increases the risk of diabetes, a disease often accompanied by skin problems).

TOBACCO AND HORMONAL ACNE

Smoking thickens the surface layer of the epidermis and promotes sebum retention, hindering the elimination of sebum. A plug containing bacteria forms, causing pimples to appear on the face. Furthermore, smoking slows down their healing process.

Furthermore, if you are interested, we explain how to recognize the different types of pimples on the face and the treatments to consider .

What treatment is available for hormonal acne in adults?

The first step in fighting adult acne is to adopt a suitable skincare routine that promotes skin balance and healing. Here are the steps of a good anti-acne routine according to our Doctors of Pharmacy:

GENTLE AND SANITIZER CLEANING

Daily cleansing is sufficient to avoid stimulating sebum production. In the evening, to rid your skin of impurities and pollution, use Laboté Cleansing Oil . With Green Tea and Cornflower, its dual cleansing action (oil then milk) is both purifying and soothing, leaving no greasy residue. Its formula, mimicking the hydrolipidic film, does not irritate the skin like other cleansing products (micellar waters, gels, soaps, foams, etc.).

EXFOLIATION

Once or twice a week, this product helps prevent sebum retention by refining the skin and also prepares it for a possible professional treatment for the removal of blackheads and whiteheads. Adult skin is more sensitive than adolescent skin, so it's best to avoid retinol-type products, or those containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or AHAs. Gentler and just as effective, we recommend hibiscus flower acid at a concentration of 2 to 5%, found in our Exfoliating Powder Peel .

LOCALIZED CARE

For targeted action directly on acne blemishes at any stage of development (microbial, inflammatory, or healing), we recommend the Purifying Targeted Treatment based on Tea Tree , Rosemary Verbenone, Rose Geranium, and Lavender, diluted in Nigella and/or Jojoba oil. Not recommended during pregnancy or in case of known allergy to essential oils.

DAILY CARE

To combat acne daily, apply a moisturizing and sebum-regulating day cream every morning (discover our smooth skin formula, specially created for acne-prone skin) and, in the evening, a cream that will stimulate cell renewal while also regulating sebum production. For these treatments, the best plant-based ingredients are wild pansy, black cumin seed oil, and green tea.

Cleansing Oil Makeup Remover

Purifying  • Sanitizer

Cleansing Oil Makeup Remover

Green Tea Extract 2%, Cornflower Petals

Exfoliating Powder Peel

Evens out skin tone  • Purifying  • Glow

Exfoliating Powder Peel

Hibiscus flower acid 5%, Cranberry seeds

How to remove acne scars?

Adding Centella asiatica to your daily routine (included in the smooth skin formula) will deeply stimulate the fibroblasts in your epidermis and the production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. It will help your skin heal, firm, and become smoother.

We also recommend blends of essential oils of Rock Rose, Helichrysum, Rosemary Verbenone, and Lavender, with their regenerative and purifying properties that help repair and renew surface cells. This precise balance of oils is present in our facial repair treatment, allowing for targeted and naturally effective action against scars.

Dermatological and medical management of hormonal acne

For more in-depth care, we suggest you have a hormonal assessment done by a dermatologist or endocrinologist. The results of this assessment may lead to an adjustment of your birth control pill for those taking it who suffer from hormonal acne. Some pills are more effective in treating hormonal acne, but unfortunately, not all are covered by insurance.

This assessment may also lead to the prescription of medication, but it's important to know that the result is not always conclusive and varies from person to person. The treatment may involve:

  • Topical treatments include creams containing benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, or erythromycin (although resistance to erythromycin has been observed in some individuals).

  • Oral: isotretinoin tablets (the well-known Roaccutane) for truly severe acne. However, the side effects are numerous, and this treatment is not 100% effective for adult acne.

  • Combined: local treatment and oral treatment may be combined, for example antibiotics, with zinc, and hormone therapy.

  • Finally, some researchers and a few dermatologists recommend Spironolactone, a diuretic and hypotensive steroid whose effects would show interesting results.

Nutritional management of hormonal acne

Our diet plays a vital role in the health of our skin. When suffering from acne, it's even more important to pay attention to it and prioritize anti-inflammatory foods that are gentle on the gut flora. The Mediterranean diet, for example (rich in fruits and vegetables, oily fish, healthy oils, seeds, and nuts), follows the principles of an anti-inflammatory diet.

It's also important to avoid consuming too much sugar or saturated fat (found in processed foods) because these can contribute to acne by disrupting the gut microbiota. As for dairy products, they should be limited to the bare minimum.

Zinc supplementation can complement an anti-inflammatory diet and provide results depending on the quality of the dietary supplement chosen, just like taking certain probiotics.

A nutritionist can help you put in place a diet adapted to your situation.

Aesthetic treatment of hormonal acne

Occasionally, and in cases of severe acne, skin cleansing by incising microcysts and comedones (sometimes papules and pustules) may be considered. These treatments are very painful but remarkably effective, and dermatologists no longer perform them due to time constraints, even though they are part of the recommended acne management approach. Today, they are performed by estheticians.

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